Barren beauty

Kythnos isle’s mythical waters, miraculous icons and solitary beach trees

It has been said that Kythnos is the least interesting of the islands that make up the Cyclades. Maybe it’s the peculiar barrenness that makes it so. Whatever the reason, the isle situated between Kea and Serifos generally attracts fewer visitors than its more popular relatives making it an ideal escape away from crowds. And, if you ask the locals, there’s lots of see and do.

For starters, the Mesolithic site on the island points to the oldest settlement uncovered in all of the Cyclades, namely that of the Dryopes. In ancient times, the isle claimed fame by offering two ships in the Sea Battle of Salamis and had its name honourably carved into the golden tripod at Delphi.

The ancients had also discovered the magical quality of Kythnos waters. Indeed, over the years the island has remained famous for its radioactive thermal springs rich in sulphur, saline, and ferrous waters, considered to have the medicinal properties of the gods and known to help those suffering of dermatitis, rheumatism and arthritis.

Often referred to as Thermia (folk term for “springs”) the island has two spas, Kakavos and Agii Anargiri, reaching temperatures of about 52 degrees Celsius and situated at a distance of about 50 metres from the other in the seaside settlement of Loutra (literally “baths”). A popular site since the antiquity, Loutra had its first pump-room facilities probably built by the Turks and the 19th century. The Thirties and Sixties also saw much activity. Recently, what with the trend back to traditional medicine heightened, interest has been regenerated.

Around the villages

The three out of four hotels on the island (Kythnos Bay, Xenia Anagenissis and Meltemi) are located in Loutra (there are lots of rooms to rent elsewhere around the isle), making it a good base, though capital Hora (or Messaria) and Dryopidha are the picturesque centres of the island and more characteristically Cycladic in their architecture.

Moreover, these are the villages in which the 1,800 permanent inhabitants live during the winter. The white-washed streets paved with concrete slabs often decorated with folkloric motifs such as boats, flowers and birds and the gardens filled with multi-coloured flowers make these villages very hospitable along with the locals cheerful greetings of kalimera (Good day) or yia sas (hello).

From Loutra, one should go in search of the famous Castle of Orio or Kefalokastro. Built in around 1650 this is where the islands capital was situated during the Middle Ages. The journey is best taken in a 4×4, as the roads are scruffy and too narrow for comfortable driving. Ask the locals first and be prepared to walk towards the final mountain top destination. The view of neighbouring isle Kea from there is sublime and the area is full of tombs, walls and man-made caves carved into the rocks.

Places of worship

Legend has it that 100 churches fit within the walls of this castle. Today only two remain. The other castle, Rigokastro (or Vryokastro), is hardly recognisable even if you ask a guide to point to its ruins. While many members of parliament have promised to help the restoration of the site, nothing has yet happened.

The churches on the island claim some interesting stories and are worth a visit. South-west on the island in the village of Flambouria, where, according to legend, traces of the steps of the Virgin Mary can be tracked all the way from the beach to the Church of Panagia Flambouriani. The monastery of Panagia Nikous is known for the “secret school” held in the monastery’s basement during the Ottoman era and the monastery of Panagia Kanala (located south-east near the village of Kanala) houses the miraculous icon of the Virgin dating back to the 15th century.

Meanwhile, post-Byzantine Agia Triada situated in Hora is the oldest church on the island. Frescoes and icons of the post-Byzantine period are well preserved, while ancient sculptures and inscriptions have been found in the area around the church.

Many churches are located beachside, so a sightseeing trip can accompany a dip in the water. The beaches around Kythnos enjoy a strange barrenness. Most are sandy and offer shade by way of almyrikia (trees that grow on sand). There are at least 15 top quality beaches to choose from with especially cool and clean waters, try Kolona or Apokrissi first. Many other beaches can be reached via small boat from Merihas (the island’s port) or Loutra ask locals for information as formal timetables are not implemented.

Ecological pursuits Lastly, the Kythnos Aeolic Park boasts the first steps taken in producing alternative energy sources. The wind park was built in 1983, making it the first of its kind in all of Greece. It has since undergone numerous changes and improvements and now accounts for almost all energy use on the island.