Verdant mystique

In recent years, the idea of Samothraki as the Greek island destination with a difference has been getting around by word of mouth. Those who hail the merits of this north Aegean island speak whimsically of its singular mountain terrain, its abundance of crystal clear water, its archaeological finds along with an intangible mysticism that hovers in the air.

Still to be pushed by travel agencies and yet to be transformed by high tourism, Samothraki (southwest of the mainland port of Alexandroupolis ) is a treasure chest of untrodden paths. Be, however, prepared for minimal resources and don’t expect five-star comforts. Moreover, if you don’t have someone to show you around, Samothraki could prove difficult terrain. Not just geographically, but also because simply it hasn’t become attuned to the visitor.

Locals, for one thing, are not the tourist-wise sort plaguing the more popular islands; they come across as easy-going but fairly tacit individuals when it comes to strangers. The lack of standard comfort may discourage some visitors, still those sticking to the goal of getting to really know Samothraki will be amply rewarded - with sights and tales found nowhere else in the Aegean Sea.

When you arrive at Kamariotissa port (by ferry or hydrofoil from Alexandroupolis or Kavala , by long boat-trip from Pireaus), don’t be disappointed. Its just another non-picturesque port. So, don’t stay there, move right on. Six kilometres northwest from Kamariotissa is Palaiopoli (fittingly named “old town”) where you will encounter the impressive ancient Sanctuary of the Great Gods and the island’s archaeological museum.

Timeless mystique…

The Sanctuary is indeed a good place to start. After all, when one thinks of Samothraki, what promptly comes to mind is Nike or the “Winged Victory” marble statue. This goddess of victory, considered the finest example of Hellenistic Greek sculpture, once stood on this very site (she is now on exhibit, with head and arms missing, at Paris’ Louvre Museum ) at an imposing 8 ft high, her wings spread wide and her soft garments blowing in the wind.

Samothraki’s sanctuary was a place of worship where the mysteries in honour of the Cabeiri (often associated with the Great Gods) were performed for over 1,000 years during Ancient Greek and Roman times. Equal in importance to the Eleusinian mysteries the Cabeiri mysteries differed in that both citizens and slaves could participate in them, worshipping the power of fertility and seeking protection for seafarers.

…and natural wonders Modern-day evidence of the fertility once secured by the Cabeiri is everywhere. For what dominates the Samothrakian landscape is a plethora of olive, oak, chestnut, maple, bush cedar and sycamore trees as well as various bushes including mastic trees, nettles, myrtles, wild pear trees and rose bushes.

Water is a divine gift here with hundreds of small streams and brooks flowing abundantly from a multitude of sources on Mount Saos. Its peak, Feggari (literally moon), reaches an impressive 1,611 metres thus gaining the title of the highest in the whole of the Aegean. It is here, legend has it, that Poseidon chose to watch the Trojan War from, comfortably sitting at the mountaintop.

The path leading to Feggari, following a three-hour trek, begins just outside Therma, a small town whose thermal springs and baths were known since Byzantine times for their therapeutic effects.

Yet what most visitors rush to savour, once on Samothraki, are the majestic Saos Mountain’s umpteen waterfalls and ravines, dotted with crystal-clear freshwater pools where one can (or plain should) bathe. The most popular place to do so is at Fonias River, which boasts one of the biggest waterfalls and about 15 water-filled natural pools (locals call these vathres) in which one can swim under the shade of the sycamore trees.

The Fonias area is a popular destination for free campers of all ages, while other waterfalls and vathres are located at Gria Vathra, Vatos (access to this one only by caique), Ksiropotamos, Aggistros, Yiali and of the imposing Kremastos (literally hanging).

Back to the beach

For those who prefer lazy sandy beaches, Pahia Ammos (literally fat sand) is located at the southernmost part of the island. Getting there, however, can prove adventurous, as you'’ll have to look out for a dirt road that begins at Lakoma. For its part, the beach at Kipi, offering black volcanic pebble and deep waters, is indeed one of the more private beaches in Greece.

Apart from being refuge for one of Greece’s rarest mammals - the Monachus monachus monk seal, which lives in the sea caves on the south-eastern side of Mount Saos - Samothraki is also home to over 50,000 wild goats (or agriokatsika) that graze freely on the island and according to locals are very tasty. Meat eaters should not miss out on ordering this trademark meal (the best place to eat wild goat is at the village of Profitis Ilias, located two kilometres north of Lakoma).

Before heading back to the port for your departure, spend some time in Hora, the isle’s amphitheatrically built capital. It is located 6 kilometres inland from Kamariotissa and hosts about one third of the entire island population. As a special treat, do try some traditional local bread, patiently kneaded and allowed to rise seven times.